Thirteen years ago I made my first trip abroad - three weeks at a language school in
Brighton, UK. I had to obtain a British visa. It took two interviews and two visa officers to grant a visa. The second officer started the interview with a let's-get-to-the-heart-of-the-matter question: "Why did you give our visa officer a cookery book?"
It wasn't a cookery book. It was the project that I was working on - relating culinary traditions and culture, showing food as an integral part of history, culture, and ultimately language use. What better way to
savor them than through food?
I was happy to find out that my two favorite things from Portugal - fado music and port wine - are related, too. Let me tell you how.
Fado is at least a couple of centuries old. It has its roots in Afro-Brazilian music (Brazil being a Portuguese colony at the time). It means fate or destiny in Portuguese. Fado develops in Lisbon and Coimbra in bars, taverns, and brothels - a folk tradition yet a distinctly urban one. Almost always performed in a minor key, it is a melancholic song with profound lyrics about life, love, and death.
Fado singers can be accompanied by various instruments, but almost always by two types of guitar - the familiar Spanish six string version (against the common wisdom of Northern Portugal that only
bad wind and bad marriages come from Spain*) and then a more exotic twelve string
Portuguese guitar. This instrument is a variation on the English lute - it comes to portugal via Porto, the port city at the mouth of river Douro, a trade center. Porto the city is known best for its eponymous staple - the port wine. The port wine growing region (a time-honored tradition, demarcated a century before Bordeaux) is the upper basin of Douro, in the mountains near the Spanish border. For centuries, Britain was the chief consumer of port wine; British merchants took great care to control not only wine trade, but wine production as well. The names of the major port houses bear witness to it to this day -
Graham,
Warre, Dow,
Taylor Fladgate, Churchill, Sandeman,
Smith Woodhouse.
Port deserves its own story - at least one, possibly many - best told by the port makers, such as the
Symington family. Let's get back fado. There are many phenomenal fado singers, past and current; my favorite is
Mariza. Her 2008 concert in Lisbon is superb. You can find it on iTunes, and have instant gratification; but it is best to have patience and get the
CD version because it comes with a second disc - a DVD with a documentary called "
Mariza and the story of fado".
The second visa officer understood the fun of relating food and culture. Before long, I had her laughing and smiling. When the ice was broken, I knew for sure my visa application would not be rejected.
*De Espanha, nem bom vento, nem bom casamento